访问印度尼西亚的报告 (Report on a visit to Indonesia, Song Qingling)
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在十天的日程中,我们访问了印度尼西亚的首都雅加达,以亚非会议闻名于世的万隆,文化古都和革命的英雄城市日惹,还有被称作“诗之岛”的巴厘。我们应邀参加了印度尼西亚独立十一周年庆祝大会,出席了国会特别会议和雅加达市民欢迎大会。我们得到机会和印度尼西亚的政治家们,各界著名人士和妇女领袖们进行了友好的接触,还接见了各地的华侨代表。
这次访问给我留下了愉快而深刻的印象。在我们这个友好的邻邦中我们受到了热烈的欢迎。我们看到了印度尼西亚的美丽富饶的自然环境,也看到了印度尼西亚人民在建设自己国家的工作中的决心和力量。还看到了印度尼西亚和中国两国人民之间日益增长的友谊。我们为着有机会向我们的邻邦——印度尼西亚的人民表达中国人民的心意而感到荣幸,也为着能够把我们在印度尼西亚获得的印象和印度尼西亚人民的友谊传达给中国人民而感到愉快。这种感情使我更密切地认识到这次难忘的访问和中国印度尼西亚人民之间的友谊的巨大的价值。
在雅加达八月十四早晨一点钟,当我们乘的飞机在雅加达机场降落的时候,在探照灯的强烈光线下,受到了以沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理和夫人为首的印度尼西亚政府领导人和各界著名人士,外交使节,华侨代表的欢迎。而在机场外面更有上万的群众把马路挤得几乎通不过汽车去。群众中有印度尼西亚人,也有华侨,听说很多人从下午九时就站在街上直等到早晨一时。我深深地为他们的热情所感动。
一时三十分,我们到了总统府独立宫的大厅里,受到了苏加诺总统和哈达副总统和夫人的热诚而亲切的欢迎。
苏加诺总统见了面第一句话就说:“你到底来啦!”早晨二时,我被招待在国家宫休息,实际上在这一连串令人兴奋的场面下,是很难安心休息的。天亮后不久,我们就又开始活动了。上午拜会了哈达副总统和国会,下午到烈士公墓献花圈。午饭和晚饭都是和苏加诺总统一起吃的,晚饭同席的还有哈达副总统和夫人,沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理和夫人,国会第一副议长阿利芬和夫人等人。席间很自然地谈到苏伊士运河问题,我们都认为纳赛尔总统的勇气一部分是受了亚非会议的精神的鼓舞和支持。我们也谈到了苏加诺总统访问美国的事情,我们认为他在美国的演说是值得亚非国家骄傲的。
十五日拜会了沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理,参加了印度尼西亚中国友好协会的欢迎会,印度尼西亚中国友好协会的主席布里约诺教授小病初愈,也出席了欢迎会,并作了热情洋溢的演说,我除了演说之外,还和到会的印度尼西亚朋友们进行了个别的接触。这个欢迎茶会始终在热情友好的气氛中进行。
中午和沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理和夫人共进午餐。
下午,在大使馆参加了全印度尼西亚华侨的欢迎会。到会的有印度尼西亚各地派来的华侨代表一千五百多人。
会上由华侨代表司徒赞先生致欢迎辞,我对华侨代表报告了祖国建设事业的突飞猛进,并勉励华侨要和印度尼西亚人民友好相处。雅加达副市长达努布洛多也讲了话,他说“我自己曾亲眼看见,中国人民正在努力建设一个伟大的工业国家,使西方人明了,我们亚洲人民也会建造这样的国家”。到会的华侨都非常兴奋、热情,对从祖国来的人想尽一切方法来表示亲近。这说明华侨同胞对祖国的热爱。而散会后我们就遇到了更加热烈的场面,大使馆门外马路上挤满了人群,绝大部分是华侨,当我们离开大使馆回国家宫的时候,拥挤的
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人群使汽车无法开动。
晚上参加了苏加诺总统举行的国宴。这个盛大的欢迎宴会在独立宫举行,参加宴会的有印度尼西亚政府的重要官员和苏联、波兰、捷克斯洛伐克、南斯拉夫、越南、印度、巴基斯坦、阿富汗、锡兰、缅甸、埃及、伊拉克、沙特阿拉伯等国的外交使节,为了使在宴会中彼此谈话更容易了解,大家都使用了英语。苏加诺总统讲话的时候谈到了他的身世和经历,他说他在少年时期非常贫苦,但却喜欢读书,在思想的世界里遇见了许多伟大的思想家,其中也包括孙中山先生。他说“孙中山先生的学说启发我去斗争,启发我去爱我的国家,爱我的人民。我同我的人民一道长期斗争的结果,终于在一九四五年争取到了印度尼西亚的独立。”他又说“亚洲是一家”的思想,第一次是从孙中山先生那里知道的。而今天,“亚洲是一家”这个名词已经变成活生生的现实了。
我在讲话时除了向苏加诺总统和印度尼西亚政府表示感谢,向印度尼西亚人民表示崇高的敬意之外,还谈到近十年来亚洲所发生的巨大的变化,若不是这种变化,我们就不可能象今天这样欢聚一堂。我也谈到亚非两洲进入新的历史纪元之后,我们共同努力的方向。
这个宴会在轻松融洽的气氛中进行,大家感到是一家人。
十六日上午游览了茂物的植物园。这个距雅加达五十四公里的城市位置在拔海八百七十公尺的高地上,风景清新,气候凉爽。茂物的植物园是世界上最大的植物园之一,培植好几万种热带植物,单单兰花就有二万多种。我看到有一种非常好看的红花,但也非常毒,小孩子吃了就中毒而死。当我在植物园游览时,遇到很多华侨,有老太太,也有小学生,他们守候在路旁,也有跟着跑的,最后在兰室外面,被好几百个小学生包围住了,他们争先恐后地要把手中的鲜花送给我们。
从茂物回到雅加达,马上就到外交部长官邸去和印度尼西亚妇女团体领袖会见,到会的有哈达副总统夫人,沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理夫人,空军参谋长夫人,警察总长夫人,外交部长夫人,全印度尼西亚妇女大会主席玛丽亚乌伐山多梭夫人等七、八十人。事先曾有不少妇女代表向我提出了许多问题,其中大部分是希望了解目前中国妇女儿童的情况。如中国妇女是否有选举权与被选举权?是否受婚姻法的保护?还有多妻制吗?妓女是否真的完全消灭?教育机构是否对妇女开放?是否同工同酬?有没有儿童法庭?是否禁止童工等。
我就借这次会见的机会对这些问题作了综合的答复,并且引用了“百闻不如一见”的话顺便邀请印度尼西亚的妇女代表来我国访问。苏迪罗市长夫人支持我的说法,她说她在中国的确没有发现妓女和乞丐。到会的代表们对我的答复表示满意。接着我作了以“在解放时代里的亚非妇女”为题的讲话。这次聚会是由外交部长阿卜杜加尼的夫人主持的,会后她又作了午餐的主人。
晚上应邀出席了印度尼西亚国会特别会议。刚刚访问中国归来的沙多诺议长发表了国庆演说,他强调说明“国内和平对于来日大规模建设是很需要的,对于印度尼西亚在国际事务中的地位也是很需要的。”接着沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理演说,他说明政府在内政方面将实行有计划的建设,在外交方面,仍将执行以导向世界和平为目的,符合万隆亚非会议精神的积极的独立自主政策。
八月十七日是个又兴奋、又紧张的日子,整天都参加了印度尼西亚独立十一周年纪念日的庆祝活动。印度尼西亚人民以欢欣鼓舞的心情迎接这个纪念日。在过去一年中,印度尼西亚人民完成了国会的大选和制宪会议的大选,废除了圆桌会议协定,同时今年的国庆有特别多的来自中国的朋友。和印度尼西亚人民一道欢度国庆的中国朋友,除了我们之外,还有以达浦生为首的中国印度尼西亚友好访问团,中国农业考察团,北京杂技团和中国举重代表队。按雅加达人们的说法:这形成了印度尼西亚、中国友好的高潮。
这一天早晨,独立宫前的会场又庄严又热烈。苏加诺总统作了以“充实你们的生活”为题的演说。他开始演说时,首先称呼了我的名字,我很荣幸,在印度尼西亚国庆大典上受到苏加诺总统这样尊敬,这无疑地是对六亿中国人民的尊敬。苏加诺总统的演说中痛斥了殖民主义,在谈到苏伊士运河问题时他说:“苏伊士运河不仅是埃及本身的问题,而是所有殖民地国家和刚宣告独立的国家的问题。亚非国家必须高呼‘把手从埃及放开!’如果让我决定,我将立即召集第二次亚非会议来讨论这事。”当他讲到这里时,下面报以长时间的鼓掌和欢呼。
总统讲完后,有十七个青年走到独立宫的台阶前面,前排的一个女青年把盛国宝的盒子捧着走到苏加诺总统面前,总统打开盒子,取出国宝——第一面红白旗,又交给女青年,再由这十七个青年把这面国旗升在独立宫前广场中的旗杆上。接着举行了阅兵式。
中午十二时,我们到了北径山东街的独立大厦,在这个具有历史意义的房子里,十一年前——一九四五年,苏加诺总统和哈达副总统宣布了印度尼西亚的独立。我们到后不久,总统和副总统也到了,他们先向独立纪
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念碑献花,接着我也献了花,我以代表中国人民向为争取独立而英勇斗争的印度尼西亚人民致敬的心情把鲜花放在纪念碑上。
下午三时,我又遇到一个动人的场面,一万多个小学生排着整齐的队伍站在独立宫前的广场上,这是为庆祝国庆节举行的万名学生大合唱。苏加诺总统对他们训话,他号召作为民族希望的少年男女,要为祖国勤奋学习和工作,把印度尼西亚变成繁荣富强的国家。他在训话时,也把我介绍给小学生们,他告诉小学生们说:“这位中国妇女从小时候就举手喊独立,后来一直为独立而奋斗,现在她们的国家已经变成独立的强大的国家了,以她为榜样学习吧!”他又说“我称她作姐姐,你们应该把她叫姑母,在路上遇见了要行礼。”我面对那些精神饱满的小学生们,听着他们那响亮悦耳的歌声,想着苏加诺总统这样关心对下一代的教育,使我深受感动。
晚上我们又参加了国庆晚会,晚会是在独立宫的后院里露天举行的,一棵热带特有的大树把院子遮盖起来,树上布置灯光,我们就在这个富于幻想的幽静的环境里看了具有独特风格的印度尼西亚舞蹈和音乐。直到深夜十二时才结束了这一天的庆祝活动。
在万隆十八日上午,我们由雅加达乘飞机到达万隆,这个以万隆精神赢得人心的城市用鲜花和潮水般的群众欢迎了我们。我们受到西爪哇省长萨努西和夫人的招待,陪着我们参观了聋哑学校,在华侨中学和当地的华侨代表三百多人见面,在细雨中游览了美丽多姿的市容。我们怀着崇敬的心情瞻仰了作过亚非会议会场的独立大厦,省长把中国代表团和周总理坐过的位子指给我们看。这个建筑并不高大,也不算华丽,但因为在这里诞生了万隆精神,便成了具有历史意义的永远令人向往的地方了。
晚上参加了萨努西省长在省长公署举行的宴会,吃完饭后用了十几分钟时间和万隆妇女团体的领袖们四十人见面谈话,接着就是晚会。晚会中有西爪哇舞蹈,也有华侨学生的音乐舞蹈节目。音乐节目很有趣,是竹管合奏,这种竹管乐器印度尼西亚人叫它“安格隆”,每个人拿一排竹管,是一个音阶,大家合作奏出一个乐曲来,华侨学生演奏了“东方红”,他们奏得很好听。我带了这样一套乐器回来,现已送到博物馆了。
我们在万隆停留的时间还不到一天,但这个初次访问的城市却使我们感到象是会晤老朋友,一点也不生疏。
就它的风景说,很象日本的西京,只是没有西京那些庙宇。万隆的人们——包括华侨也给了我们亲切而温暖的感觉。我们都分别住在华侨家里,他们把最好的房子和房间让给我们,使我们觉得象在家里一样。
在万隆,有些华侨妇女要我代她们问候毛主席,也有许多人托我问候周总理。
在日惹十九日,我们从万隆乘飞机到了日惹。由于这个城市是印度尼西亚的文化古城,又是革命首都,所以在行政区划上作为特区。特区长官是日惹苏丹波乌诺。这个英雄城市用全市悬挂国旗来欢迎我们,华侨则把红白旗和五星红旗同时挂出来。在原来的日程上,到飞机场欢迎的有特区副长官和其他官员。但是当我们下飞机时,特区长官日惹苏丹也到机场来欢迎了。而且以后他一直陪着我们进行活动。日惹苏丹波乌诺是一个热情而刚毅的人,在印度尼西亚民族革命运动中有过贡献,在当地人民中有威信。他曾两次任印度尼西亚共和国国防部长。(在独立战争时期,荷兰人来会见日惹苏丹,企图进行分裂活动,日惹苏丹穿军服出见,对荷兰人说:我不是以苏丹的身份和你谈话,而是以印度尼西亚共和国军人的身份和你谈话。于是帝国主义者的幻想被打碎了。)目前他正致力于日惹特区的经济建设。
我到国家大厦休息了十几分钟,日惹苏丹就陪着我们到大厦后厅看工艺品展览,原来他们这样客气,为了使我们能够集中地了解日惹的手工艺生产,也为了节省时间,他们把这些手工艺品和制作表演临时展览在国家大厦里。我们看见展览的有花裙布、银器、皮制品、木雕、乐器等,进行制作表演的工人技艺相当高,如制花裙的工作就非常细致精巧,花裙也叫沙龙,是印度尼西亚妇女们必穿的衣服。我看工人们印制花裙布时,印花板是用铜片嵌起来的,颜色是用铜条醮着树脂画上去的,永不退色,比较讲究的花裙布要费两三个月才能印制出一条来。我们看到那些富有民族风格的工艺品不论在艺术方面或实用方面都有相当高的价值,无怪日惹的工艺品驰名于全印度尼西亚了。除了参观展览之外,我们还去参观了两个花裙厂,其中一个较大的是华侨开的。我觉得日惹的工艺生产有很好的发展前途。
下午落着细雨,我们到烈士墓献了花圈,那里长眠着苏第曼将军和其他许多为争取国家独立而牺牲的烈士们。
苏第曼将军是著名的印度尼西亚民族英雄,曾任印度尼西亚国民军总司令,被称为“国民军之父”,在独立战争中立过很多功勋,后来患了严重的肺病,仍带病指挥部队反抗荷兰军队。一九五○年因病逝世。我有幸以中国人民的名义向这些长眠地下的印度尼西亚反殖民主义的英雄们致以崇高的敬意。
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下午我们会见了日惹和中爪哇地区的华侨代表,我还会见了日惹的妇女领袖们。
晚上参加了日惹苏丹在格巴帝安宫举行的宴会,接着看了中爪哇舞蹈。这是一种古典的宫廷舞蹈,是一种最难跳的舞蹈,动作很慢,可是连手指的每个关节都有动作。表演者不是用表情而是用默想来表达情绪。
二十日上午乘汽车到距日惹四十公里的波罗浮屠佛塔,日惹苏丹仍作陪。沿途风景优美,北面不远耸立着一座圆锥形的山峰,山顶冒着浓烟,日惹苏丹介绍那是爪哇最大的莫拉比火山,三年前曾有过一次爆发,附近一百公里之内都受到灾害,死伤了好几千人。现在有七个机构在火山周围监视着它的活动。后来我们从巴厘回雅加达时,又在飞机上从空中看到莫拉比火山,很清楚地看见正在喷着烟雾的火山口,这是难得的机会。
半路经过文池兰镇,日惹苏丹提议去看市场——印度尼西亚人叫“巴刹”。里面有卖蔬菜的,卖粮食的,卖日用品的,很多的手工业品。我看到一种小油灯,是用作废的电灯泡制成的,这种利用废物方法很有趣,值得学习,因此我买了一只这样的油灯。市场里男男女女都坐在地上,把东西摆成地摊,好象我国有些乡间的庙会似的。
当我们的车队的二十七辆汽车到达波罗浮屠佛塔时,立刻被一千多印度尼西亚人和华侨包围了。我们已经不是第一次遇到这种情况了,因为我们访问活动的详细日程事先就在报纸上公布了,人们可以相当准确地在我们预定要到达的地方等待着。波罗浮屠佛塔已有一千年的历史了,这是勤劳智慧的印度尼西亚人民创造的历史遗产。佛塔是方形的,共九层,塔壁上有数不清的石雕佛像和浮雕,的确是件宝贵的艺术品。
在佛塔下面的休息亭里,我接受了吉突州长赠的佛塔照像册,马吉朗华侨赠的花裙布,还有当地妇女团体赠的一张本地出产的草席和一封信,信的结束语是“愿印度尼西亚中国人民的友谊长存”!
离开波罗浮屠佛塔后,又到附近参观了门突陵庙。在往飞机场的途中还参观了一所工艺学校和民众小学。下午二时,我在飞机场上辞别了这个文化古城和英雄的城市,辞别了以特区长官、日惹苏丹为首的热情而好客的主人们,飞向“诗之岛”巴厘。
在巴厘二十日下午,当我们乘的飞机飞过巴厘海峡慢慢降低高度时,就看到巴厘南部的一带海湾,岸上无边的椰子和菠萝树林和深绿色的海水互相陪衬着。我们的飞机几乎是紧贴着海岸着陆的。在机场受到了东南省长沙里民和夫人,当地军政官员和华侨代表的欢迎。我们被招待在巴塘市的巴厘旅馆里,当天就在这里参加了省长举行的欢迎晚宴。
巴厘人民有过反抗殖民者的光荣历史。荷兰统治印度尼西亚有三百五十多年的历史,但完全占领巴厘却只有七十年。巴厘人民在巴塘进行过反抗荷兰的最后一战,巴厘王子拒绝投降。结果王子和宫廷中的男女全部战死,荷兰人焚毁了王宫。我们住的巴厘旅馆就建筑在王宫的旧址上。
二十一日上午,我们到巴厘乡下去游览。在几个地方分别参观了银器店,木刻制品和巴厘绘画展览。我很佩服巴厘人的艺术才能和艰苦的劳动,他们保存了巴厘人民的传统艺术。但是由于殖民新治的结果,过去这些艺术品是不被重视的,这些艺术工人们的生活也很困苦,我相信今后在当地政府的帮助下,这些具有传统民族风格的艺术品和工艺品会在交流文化和繁荣经济方面起重要作用。
在巴厘,比美丽的风景更吸引我们注意的是巴厘的妇女,她们比男子担负了更多的劳动。她们和解放前的客家女子很相似。沿途都看到成群结队的头上顶着东西的妇女,不论老太太或小姑娘都参加劳动。可是她们的身体都非常健康,腰背挺直,胸部突出,我想这是劳动的结果。虽然因为各种原因,她们今天的生活还相当困苦,但是她们的乐观的态度和美丽的容貌却产生一种引人的力量。
我曾访问了居住巴厘已经二十四年的比利时画家勒迈耶尔,他是世界著名的画家之一,我们参观了他的画室。
还在佐哥尔特阿共的王府里吃了一顿本地风味的午餐,并看了一场斗鸡。他的王府很象中国的建筑。晚上看了闻名于世界的巴厘舞蹈,如果说日惹的舞蹈的特点是动作细腻,偏重默想,那么巴厘舞蹈的特点就是动作显著,富于表情。巴厘舞蹈团已到中国作访问演出了,一定会受到中国人民的欢迎。
在巴厘,我们还会见了当地和临近各埠的华侨代表和华侨学校的学生们。在巴厘岛上我们发现比别处较多的中国、印度尼西亚历史上文化交流事实。我们国内已不易看到的铜钱,在巴厘岛上家家都能找到,这种铜钱被停止流通还是不久的事情。现在人们把铜钱结成一串一串的吊起来,当做宗教仪式上不可缺少的神器。在一家银器店里我们发现一串串的铜钱中有开元年号的,有万历年号的,也有清朝各种年号的,可见中国、印度尼西亚历史上文化关系的密切。
巴厘被称为“诗之岛”一点也不夸张,这首优美的诗篇里描写了这个热带的美丽海岛和它的勇敢智慧的人民,描写了古老的文化传统,描写了人民的困苦的然而是乐观的生活,也描写了这个岛屿的不可限量的未来。
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向印度尼西亚告别二十二日早晨乘飞机离开巴厘,原打算中途在泗水降落,并和当地的代表人士在机场见面。但因为时间关系,临时取消了这个计划,直飞雅加达了。
回到雅加达住在我国大使馆里。这天下午是我们留在印度尼西亚的最后时刻,因此也格外忙碌。首先我在印度尼西亚共和国电台作了以“万隆精神和亚非人民之间的团结”为题的广播演说。接着去拜会苏加诺总统夫人,我们作了亲切的谈话。从那里赶到体育馆参加雅加达市民欢迎大会。到会的有苏迪罗市长、沙多诺议长等军政官员、雅加达市各政党各人民团体负责人、社会名流和华侨代表等一千多人。会场外面则有更多的群众。苏迪罗市长先致欢迎词,接着我作了将近一小时的演说,题目是“中国、印度尼西亚之间日益增长的友谊。”当晚上八时半回到大使馆时,黄大使为了我的访问印度尼西亚而举行的招待会的客人早就到齐了。其中包括沙斯特罗阿米佐约总理和夫人、隆姆副总理、沙多诺议长、苏迪罗市长和政府官员、政党领袖、社会名流、外交使节、华侨代表等五百多人。
二十三日清晨到独立宫向苏加诺总统辞行,他说九月底他将到达北京,将有机会参加中国的国庆。
在到机场的沿途都有不约而来的欢送的群众,在机场里面仍是以总理为首的欢送的人群。我发表了告别演说,和印度尼西亚的朋友们握手告别,九时正,飞机离开了跑道。我怀着惜别的心情离开了雅加达,离开了印度尼西亚。
为时十天的访问很快就过去了,但许多难忘的印象却将长久留在我的记忆中。我访问了我们这个南方的邻邦,他们的斗争的道路以至他们的生活和情感有很多和我们相同的地方。这个不久之前才用自己的斗争获得独立的国家,正在用日益团结的力量从事建设,他们目前有困难,但是怀着强烈的自尊心的印度尼西亚人民一定能克服这些困难。我还看到他们正在不断地对世界和平作出贡献来。
我们的访问在使中国和印度尼西亚人民之间进一步互相了解和增进友谊方面起了一定的作用。印度尼西亚共和国日报的社论曾说我的到来对密切印度尼西亚、中国两国人民友谊的事业有好处,亚洲这两个伟大民族的友谊日益巩固了。
我体会到:在平等相待的民族和国家之间的友好访问,是加强互助合作和促进世界和平的重要手段之一,特别在目前的亚非国家之间,这种活动更具有意义。因此,我觉得我们应该多多进行这种相互之间的友好访问。
最后,让我在这里对苏加诺总统、印度尼西亚政府和印度尼西亚人民给我的热情而诚恳的款待表示感谢。对在印度尼西亚的华侨同胞们给我的热烈欢迎和帮助表示感谢。
相关报道:
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Full page scan: 人民日报 1956-09-27 第6版
English translation
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人民日报 Renmin Ribao, 1956-09-27, 第6版 (page 6)
标题: 访问印度尼西亚的报告
English gloss: Report on visit to Indonesia (meets women's leaders)
Report on a visit to Indonesia
[Author: Soong Ching-ling [Song Qingling]]
[People's Daily 1956-09-27, page 6]
(Soong Ching-ling, Vice-Chairman of the Standing Committee of the National People's Congress) (Report to the 47th meeting of the Standing Committee of the National People's Congress, 26 September 1956)
My visit to Indonesia at the invitation of President Sukarno and the Indonesian government had originally been scheduled for July. But because I was ill and delayed for some days in Kunming, it was not until the afternoon of 13 August that I flew from Rangoon to Indonesia, arriving in Jakarta at 1 a.m. on the 14th, and I set out for home on the 23rd. During the ten-day programme we visited Indonesia's capital Jakarta; Bandung, known throughout the world for the Asian-African Conference; Jogjakarta [Yogyakarta], ancient cultural capital and heroic city of the revolution; and Bali, called the "island of poetry". We were invited to take part in the celebration of the eleventh anniversary of Indonesian independence, attended a special session of parliament and the Jakarta citizens' welcome rally. We had the opportunity of friendly contacts with Indonesian politicians, famous people of all circles and women leaders, and also received representatives of overseas Chinese from various places.
This visit left me with a pleasant and deep impression. In this friendly neighbouring country we received a warm welcome. We saw Indonesia's beautiful and rich natural environment, and also saw the determination and strength of the Indonesian people in the work of building their own country. We also saw the growing friendship between the peoples of Indonesia and China. We feel honoured to have had the opportunity to express the feelings of the Chinese people to the people of our neighbour Indonesia, and are glad to convey to the Chinese people the impressions we gained in Indonesia and the friendship of the Indonesian people. These feelings have made me recognise more closely the great value of this unforgettable visit and of the friendship between the peoples of China and Indonesia.
In Jakarta
At one o'clock on the morning of 14 August, when our plane landed at Jakarta airport, under the strong light of searchlights we were welcomed by Indonesian government leaders headed by Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo and his wife, famous people of all circles, diplomatic envoys and overseas Chinese representatives. Outside the airport tens of thousands of people jammed the road so that cars could hardly get through. Among the crowd were Indonesians and overseas Chinese; I heard that many had stood in the street from nine in the evening until one in the morning. I was deeply moved by their warmth. At 1:30 we arrived in the hall of the presidential palace, Merdeka Palace, and received a warm and cordial welcome from President Sukarno and Vice-President Hatta and his wife. President Sukarno's first words on meeting me were: "So you have come at last!" At 2 a.m. I was lodged at the State Palace to rest, but in fact amid this series of exciting scenes it was hard to rest peacefully. Soon after daybreak we began activities again. In the morning we paid calls on Vice-President Hatta and on parliament, and in the afternoon laid a wreath at the Heroes' Cemetery. Lunch and dinner were both with President Sukarno; at dinner were also Vice-President Hatta and his wife, Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo and his wife, the First Deputy Speaker of parliament, Arifin [阿利芬], and his wife, and others. At table the conversation naturally turned to the Suez Canal question; we all held that President Nasser's courage was partly inspired and supported by the spirit of the Asian-African Conference. We also talked about President Sukarno's visit to the United States; we thought his speech in America was something for the countries of Asia and Africa to be proud of.
On the 15th I called on Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo and attended the welcome meeting of the Indonesia-China Friendship Association; the association's chairman, Professor Prijono [布里约诺], who had just recovered from a minor illness, also attended the meeting and gave a warm and enthusiastic speech; besides my speech, I also had individual contact with the Indonesian friends present. This welcome tea party proceeded throughout in a warm and friendly atmosphere. At noon I had lunch with Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo and his wife.
In the afternoon, at the embassy, I attended the welcome meeting of overseas Chinese from all over Indonesia. Present were more than 1,500 overseas Chinese representatives sent from all parts of Indonesia. Mr. Situ Zan [司徒赞] gave the welcome speech on behalf of the overseas Chinese; I reported to the overseas Chinese representatives on the rapid leap forward of construction in the motherland and encouraged overseas Chinese to live in friendship with the Indonesian people. Jakarta's deputy mayor Danubroto [达努布洛多] also spoke, saying "I myself have seen with my own eyes that the Chinese people are striving to build a great industrial country, making Westerners understand that we Asian peoples too can build such a country." The overseas Chinese present were all very excited and warm and did everything to show closeness to people from the motherland. This shows the deep love of overseas compatriots for the motherland. After the meeting we met an even more fervent scene: the road outside the embassy gate was full of people, the great majority overseas Chinese, and when we left the embassy to return to the State Palace the crowd was so dense the car could not move.
In the evening I attended the state banquet given by President Sukarno. This grand welcome banquet was held in Merdeka Palace, attended by important officials of the Indonesian government and diplomatic envoys of the Soviet Union, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, Vietnam, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Ceylon, Burma, Egypt, Iraq, Saudi Arabia and other countries; to make conversation easier to understand, all used English. When President Sukarno spoke he talked about his background and experience; he said that in his youth he was very poor but loved reading, and in the world of ideas he met many great thinkers, including Dr. Sun Yat-sen. He said: "Dr. Sun Yat-sen's teachings inspired me to struggle, inspired me to love my country and my people. As a result of my long struggle together with my people, we finally won Indonesia's independence in 1945." He also said that the idea "Asia is one family" he first learned from Dr. Sun Yat-sen, and that today the phrase "Asia is one family" has become living reality. In my speech, besides expressing thanks to President Sukarno and the Indonesian government and paying high respects to the Indonesian people, I also talked about the great changes in Asia in the past ten years, without which we could not have gathered together as we do today. I also spoke of the direction of our joint efforts now that Asia and Africa have entered a new historical era. The banquet proceeded in a relaxed and harmonious atmosphere, and everyone felt like one family.
On the morning of the 16th we toured the botanical gardens at Bogor. This city, fifty-four kilometres from Jakarta, is situated on high ground 870 metres above sea level, with fresh scenery and cool climate. The Bogor botanical garden is one of the largest in the world, growing tens of thousands of tropical plants, orchids alone numbering over twenty thousand. I saw a very beautiful red flower that is also very poisonous; children who eat it die of poisoning. While touring the garden I met many overseas Chinese, old women and primary-school pupils, who waited by the roadside, some running along after us; at last outside the orchid house we were surrounded by several hundred primary-school pupils, who vied with one another to give us the fresh flowers in their hands.
Returning from Bogor to Jakarta, we went straight to the residence of the Foreign Minister to meet the leaders of Indonesian women's organisations. Present were the wife of Vice-President Hatta, the wife of Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo, the wives of the Air Force chief of staff, the national police chief and the Foreign Minister, the chairwoman of the All-Indonesia Women's Congress [Kowani], Mrs. Maria Ulfah Santoso [玛丽亚·乌伐·山多梭], and some seventy or eighty others. Beforehand many women delegates had put to me many questions, most of them wanting to know the present situation of Chinese women and children: for example, do Chinese women have the right to vote and to stand for election? Are they protected by the marriage law? Is there still polygamy? Has prostitution really been completely eliminated? Are educational institutions open to women? Is there equal pay for equal work? Are there children's courts? Is child labour banned? I took the opportunity of this meeting to give a comprehensive answer to these questions, and, quoting the saying "seeing once is better than hearing a hundred times", incidentally invited the Indonesian women delegates to visit our country. Mrs. Sudiro, the wife of the mayor, supported what I said, saying that in China she had indeed found no prostitutes and beggars. The delegates present expressed satisfaction with my answers. I then gave a talk entitled "Asian and African Women in the Era of Liberation". This gathering was chaired by the wife of Foreign Minister Abdulgani, who afterwards also hosted a luncheon.
In the evening I was invited to attend a special session of the Indonesian parliament. Speaker Sartono, who had just returned from a visit to China, gave a National Day speech, in which he stressed that "domestic peace is much needed for large-scale construction in the days to come, and is also much needed for Indonesia's position in international affairs." Then Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo spoke, explaining that in domestic affairs the government would carry out planned construction, and in foreign affairs would continue to carry out an active, independent and autonomous policy aimed at leading to world peace and in accordance with the spirit of the Bandung Asian-African Conference.
17 August was an exciting and tense day; we took part all day in the celebrations of the eleventh anniversary of Indonesian independence. The Indonesian people welcomed this anniversary in a joyful mood. In the past year the Indonesian people completed the general election of parliament and the election of the constituent assembly and abolished the Round Table agreement, and this year's National Day had especially many friends from China. Besides ourselves, Chinese friends celebrating the National Day with the Indonesian people included the China-Indonesia friendship goodwill mission headed by Da Pusheng, the Chinese agricultural delegation, the Beijing acrobatic troupe and the Chinese weightlifting team. According to Jakartans, this formed a high tide of Indonesian-Chinese friendship. That morning the assembly ground before Merdeka Palace was solemn and fervent. President Sukarno gave an address entitled "Fulfil your life". At the start of his speech he first addressed me by name; I was honoured to be so respected by President Sukarno at Indonesia's National Day ceremony, which is undoubtedly respect for the six hundred million Chinese people. In his speech President Sukarno sharply denounced colonialism; speaking of the Suez Canal question he said: "The Suez Canal is not only a problem of Egypt itself, but a problem of all colonial countries and newly independent countries. Asian and African countries must cry out 'Hands off Egypt!' If it were up to me to decide, I would immediately convene a second Asian-African Conference to discuss this." When he reached this point the audience below responded with long applause and cheers.
After the President finished, seventeen young people walked to the steps of Merdeka Palace; the young woman in the front row carried the box holding the national treasure, walked to President Sukarno, who opened the box and took out the national treasure – the first red-and-white flag – and handed it to the young woman, and then these seventeen young people raised this flag on the flagpole in the square before Merdeka Palace. A military parade followed. At noon we went to the Independence Building on North Pegangsaan Timur Street [北径山东街]; in this historic house eleven years earlier, in 1945, President Sukarno and Vice-President Hatta proclaimed Indonesia's independence. Soon after we arrived the President and Vice-President also arrived; they first laid flowers at the independence monument, and then I too laid flowers, placing them on the monument in the spirit of paying tribute, on behalf of the Chinese people, to the Indonesian people who fought heroically for independence.
At 3 p.m. I met another moving scene: over ten thousand primary-school pupils stood in orderly ranks in the square before Merdeka Palace; this was the mass choral performance of ten thousand students held to celebrate National Day. President Sukarno addressed them, calling on the boys and girls, the hope of the nation, to study and work diligently for the motherland and make Indonesia a prosperous and powerful country. In his address he also introduced me to the pupils, telling them: "This Chinese woman raised her hand and shouted for independence from childhood, and afterwards always struggled for independence; now her country has become an independent and powerful country. Take her as your example!" He also said: "I call her elder sister; you should call her aunt, and salute her when you meet her on the road." Facing those full-spirited pupils and listening to their resounding, pleasant singing, thinking how President Sukarno cares so much about the education of the next generation, I was deeply moved.
In the evening we again attended the National Day evening party, held in the open air in the back courtyard of Merdeka Palace; a large tree peculiar to the tropics covered the courtyard, with lighting arranged in the tree, and in this fantastic, tranquil setting we watched distinctively styled Indonesian dance and music, which ended only at midnight, closing that day's celebrations.
In Bandung
On the morning of the 18th we flew from Jakarta to Bandung; this city that has won hearts through the Bandung spirit welcomed us with flowers and tidal crowds. We were received by the governor of West Java, Sanusi, and his wife, who accompanied us to visit a school for the deaf and dumb, met more than 300 local overseas Chinese representatives at the overseas Chinese middle school, and toured the beautiful and varied cityscape in light rain. With reverence we visited the Independence Building where the Asian-African Conference was held, and the governor pointed out to us the seats where the Chinese delegation and Premier Zhou had sat. The building is neither tall nor magnificent, but because the Bandung spirit was born here it has become a historic place that people forever look to. In the evening we attended the banquet given by Governor Sanusi at the governor's office; after dinner we spent a dozen minutes meeting and talking with forty leaders of Bandung women's organisations, followed by an evening party. The party included West Java dance and also music and dance items by overseas Chinese students. The music item was very interesting – an ensemble of bamboo tubes, which Indonesians call "angklung"; each person holds a row of bamboo tubes, which is one scale, and together they play a tune; the overseas Chinese students played "The East Is Red", and played it very pleasantly. I brought home a set of such instruments, which has now been sent to the museum. We stayed in Bandung less than a day, but this city visited for the first time made us feel as if meeting old friends, not strange at all. As to its scenery, it is very like Kyoto in Japan, only without Kyoto's temples. The people of Bandung – including the overseas Chinese – gave us a warm and kind feeling. We each stayed at the homes of overseas Chinese, who gave us their best houses and rooms so that we felt as if at home. In Bandung some overseas Chinese women asked me to convey their greetings to Chairman Mao, and many others asked me to greet Premier Zhou.
In Jogjakarta
On the 19th we flew from Bandung to Jogjakarta. As this city is Indonesia's old cultural city and also the capital of the revolution, it is in administrative terms a special region. The head of the special region is the Sultan of Jogjakarta, Bowono [波乌诺, Hamengkubuwono IX]. This heroic city welcomed us by hanging national flags throughout the city, and the overseas Chinese hung out the red-and-white flag and the five-starred red flag at the same time. In the original programme those welcoming us at the airport were to be the deputy head of the special region and other officials. But when we got off the plane the head of the special region, the Sultan of Jogjakarta, had also come to the airport to welcome us, and thereafter he accompanied us throughout our activities. The Sultan of Jogjakarta Bowono is a warm and resolute man who contributed to Indonesia's national revolutionary movement and has prestige among local people. He has twice been Minister of Defence of the Republic of Indonesia. (During the war of independence the Dutch came to meet the Sultan of Jogjakarta, trying to carry out divisive activities; the Sultan came out to see them in military uniform and said to the Dutch: I am not speaking to you as Sultan, but as a soldier of the Republic of Indonesia. Thereupon the imperialists' illusions were shattered.) At present he is devoting himself to the economic construction of the special region.
I rested a dozen minutes at the State Building, and then the Sultan accompanied us to the rear hall of the building to see an exhibition of handicrafts; it turned out they were so considerate that, to enable us to learn about Jogjakarta's handicraft production in concentrated form and to save time, they had temporarily exhibited these handicrafts and demonstrations of their making in the State Building. On show were batik cloth, silverware, leather goods, wood carvings, musical instruments and so on; the workers giving demonstrations were quite highly skilled, for example the making of batik was very fine and delicate – batik cloth, called sarong, is clothing every Indonesian woman must wear. When I watched the workers printing batik, the printing blocks were inlaid with copper strips and the colours were drawn on with copper strips dipped in resin, never fading; a fairly fine batik cloth takes two or three months to print one length. We saw that these handicrafts full of national style have considerable value both artistically and practically, and no wonder Jogjakarta's handicrafts are famous throughout Indonesia. Besides visiting the exhibition, we also visited two batik factories, the larger of which was run by an overseas Chinese. I feel Jogjakarta's handicraft production has good prospects for development.
In the afternoon it rained lightly, and we went to the heroes' cemetery to lay a wreath, where General Sudirman and many other martyrs who died for the country's independence lie buried. General Sudirman is a famous Indonesian national hero who served as commander-in-chief of the Indonesian national army and was called "father of the national army"; he rendered many services in the war of independence, and, though suffering from severe lung disease, commanded his troops in resisting the Dutch army. He died of illness in 1950. I had the honour of paying high respects, in the name of the Chinese people, to these Indonesian anti-colonial heroes sleeping under the ground. In the afternoon we met representatives of the overseas Chinese of Jogjakarta and Central Java, and I also met the women leaders of Jogjakarta. In the evening we attended the banquet given by the Sultan of Jogjakarta at the Kepatihan palace, followed by Central Javanese dance. This is a classical court dance, the most difficult kind of dance, with very slow movements, yet even each joint of the fingers has movement. Performers express emotion not by facial expression but by meditation.
On the morning of the 20th we travelled by car to the Borobudur Buddhist stupa, forty kilometres from Jogjakarta, with the Sultan still accompanying us. The scenery along the way was beautiful; not far to the north rose a conical peak with thick smoke at its summit; the Sultan explained that it was Mount Merapi, the largest volcano in Java, which erupted three years ago, causing disaster within a hundred kilometres and killing and injuring several thousand people. Now seven institutions monitor its activity around the volcano. Later, flying back to Jakarta from Bali, we again saw Merapi from the air, clearly seeing the crater spewing smoke – a rare opportunity.
On the way we passed through the town of Muntilan [文池兰]; the Sultan suggested visiting the market – what Indonesians call "pasar". Inside were sellers of vegetables, grain and daily necessities, and many handicraft products. I saw a small oil lamp made from a discarded light bulb; this way of using waste is very interesting and worth learning, so I bought one such lamp. In the market men and women all sat on the ground with goods laid out on stalls, like a temple fair in some rural parts of our country. When our convoy of twenty-seven cars arrived at Borobudur we were immediately surrounded by over a thousand Indonesians and overseas Chinese. This was not the first time we had met this situation, because the detailed programme of our visit had been published in advance in newspapers, so that people could wait quite accurately at the places we were scheduled to arrive. Borobudur is already a thousand years old, a historical heritage created by the diligent and wise Indonesian people. The stupa is square, with nine levels, and its walls have countless stone Buddha images and bas-reliefs; it is truly a precious work of art. In the rest pavilion below the stupa I received from the governor Gitu [吉突] a photograph album of the stupa, from the overseas Chinese of Magelang batik cloth, and from the local women's organisation a locally produced straw mat and a letter, the closing words of which were "May the friendship of the Indonesian and Chinese peoples last forever!" After leaving Borobudur we also visited the nearby Mendut temple. On the way to the airport we visited a technical school and a people's primary school. At 2 p.m. at the airport I took leave of this ancient cultural city and heroic city, took leave of the warm and hospitable hosts headed by the special-region head, the Sultan of Jogjakarta, and flew to the "island of poetry", Bali.
In Bali
On the afternoon of the 20th, when our plane flew over the Bali Strait and slowly descended, we saw the bay along the southern part of Bali, with boundless coconut and pineapple groves on shore setting off the deep green sea. Our plane landed almost hugging the coast. At the airport we were welcomed by the governor of the south-east [Lesser Sunda], Sarimin [沙里民], and his wife, local military and civil officials and overseas Chinese representatives. We were lodged at the Bali Hotel in Denpasar, where that day we attended the welcome banquet given by the governor. The Balinese people have a glorious history of resistance against colonisers. The Dutch ruled Indonesia for over 350 years, but only completely occupied Bali for seventy. The Balinese people fought their last battle against the Dutch in Denpasar, and the Balinese prince refused to surrender. As a result the prince and all the men and women of the court died in battle, and the Dutch burned the palace. The Bali Hotel where we stayed was built on the old site of the palace.
On the morning of the 21st we toured the Balinese countryside. In several places we visited silver shops, wood-carving works and an exhibition of Balinese painting. I admire the artistic talent and hard labour of the Balinese; they have preserved the traditional art of the Balinese people. But as a result of colonial rule these works of art were not valued in the past, and the lives of these artist-workers were also very hard; I believe that in future, with the help of the local government, these art works and handicrafts of traditional national style will play an important role in cultural exchange and economic prosperity. In Bali, even more attractive to our attention than the beautiful scenery were the Balinese women, who carry more labour than men. They are very like Hakka women before liberation. All along the way we saw groups of women carrying things on their heads; old women and young girls alike take part in labour. Yet their bodies are all very healthy, with straight backs and prominent chests, which I think is the result of labour. Although for various reasons their lives today are still quite hard, their optimistic attitude and beautiful appearance produce an attractive force.
I visited the Belgian painter Le Mayeur [勒迈耶尔], who has lived in Bali for twenty-four years and is one of the world-famous painters, and we visited his studio. We also had a local-style lunch in the palace of Tjokorda Agung [佐哥尔特·阿共] and watched a cockfight. His palace is very like Chinese architecture. In the evening we watched the world-famous Balinese dance; if the characteristic of Jogjakarta's dance is delicate movement with emphasis on meditation, the characteristic of Balinese dance is conspicuous movement rich in expression. A Balinese dance troupe has already gone to China to give performances and will surely be welcomed by the Chinese people. In Bali we also met representatives of overseas Chinese of the area and nearby ports, and students of overseas Chinese schools. On Bali we found more facts of historical cultural exchange between China and Indonesia than elsewhere. Copper cash, which are hard to see in our country now, can be found in every home on Bali; the stopping of the circulation of these coins was recent. Now people string the coins in bunches and hang them up as indispensable sacred objects in religious ceremonies. In a silver shop we found among the strings of copper cash some with the Kaiyuan reign title, some with Wanli, and some with various Qing dynasty reign titles, showing the closeness of historical cultural relations between China and Indonesia. Bali's being called the "island of poetry" is not at all exaggerated; this beautiful poem describes this tropical, beautiful island and its brave and wise people, describes the ancient cultural tradition, describes the people's hard but optimistic life, and also describes the island's immeasurable future.
Farewell to Indonesia
On the morning of the 22nd we left Bali by plane; originally we planned to land at Surabaya on the way and meet local figures at the airport. But because of time this plan was cancelled at short notice and we flew directly to Jakarta. Back in Jakarta we stayed at our embassy. That afternoon was our last time in Indonesia, so it was especially busy. First I made a radio address over Radio of the Republic of Indonesia entitled "The Bandung Spirit and the Unity of the Peoples of Asia and Africa". Then I called on President Sukarno's wife, and we had a cordial talk. From there we hurried to the sports hall to attend the Jakarta citizens' welcome meeting. Present were Mayor Sudiro, Speaker Sartono and other military and civil officials, heads of the political parties and people's organisations of Jakarta, social celebrities and overseas Chinese representatives, over a thousand people; outside the hall were still more people. Mayor Sudiro first gave a welcome address, and then I gave a speech lasting nearly an hour, entitled "The Growing Friendship between China and Indonesia". When we returned to the embassy at 8:30 p.m., the guests of the reception Ambassador Huang had given for my visit to Indonesia had long since all arrived, including Prime Minister Sastroamidjojo and his wife, Deputy Prime Minister Roem, Speaker Sartono, Mayor Sudiro and government officials, party leaders, social celebrities, diplomatic envoys and overseas Chinese representatives, over five hundred people. On the early morning of the 23rd I took leave of President Sukarno at Merdeka Palace; he said he would arrive in Beijing at the end of September and would have an opportunity to take part in China's National Day. All along the way to the airport there were crowds who had come uninvited to see us off, and inside the airport there was still a crowd of well-wishers headed by the Prime Minister. I gave a farewell speech, shook hands with the Indonesian friends in farewell, and at nine o'clock sharp the plane left the runway. I left Jakarta, left Indonesia, with feelings of regret at parting.
The ten-day visit passed quickly, but many unforgettable impressions will stay long in my memory. I visited our southern neighbour; their road of struggle and even their life and feelings have much in common with ours. This country, which only recently won independence through its own struggle, is engaged in construction with ever-growing united strength; they have difficulties at present, but the Indonesian people, with their strong self-respect, will surely overcome them. I also saw that they are continually making contributions to world peace. Our visit played a certain role in furthering mutual understanding and friendship between the peoples of China and Indonesia. An editorial in the Republic of Indonesia's daily paper said my coming was good for the cause of closer friendship between the Indonesian and Chinese peoples, and that the friendship of these two great nations of Asia is growing firmer day by day. I have come to realise that friendly visits between nations and countries treating one another as equals are one of the important means of strengthening mutual aid and cooperation and promoting world peace, and that such activities have even greater significance especially among the Asian and African countries at present. Therefore I feel that we should carry out many more such friendly mutual visits. Finally, let me here express thanks to President Sukarno, the Indonesian government and the Indonesian people for their warm and sincere hospitality towards me, and to the overseas Chinese compatriots in Indonesia for their warm welcome and help.
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